Friday, 3 July 2009

Atherton Adventures 2: Windfarms, waterfalls - and yes, more cows.

I'd seen wind farms before, but the sublime Windy Hill, some 3 km near Ravenshoe, made my heart sing. The landscape itself was enough to have me in raptures ("magically pastoral: rolling, emerald green hills dotted with fat, handsome cows", to quote myself), and those soaring, majestic spires, blades whispering in the wind, only seemed to enhance its breathtaking, natural beauty.


Yes, I did say "whispering". Considering some of the negative press about wind turbines and noise, I was surprised to hear little more than a gentle shooshing - even when standing smack bang beneath one. But then, the pleasure/pain factor of sound, like all the senses, is highly subjective. Some people (my mum was one) are kept tossing and turning by the sound of waves beaking on sand - to me it's the most soothing lullaby imaginable.


Meanwhile, back to the cows: There they all are, meandering up hill and down dale, contentedly chewing their juicy cuds, blissfully unaware what all the fuss is about. "Turbines? What - moooo - excuse me, turbines?"

Just in case I haven't made this perfectly clear, I'm rather keen on cows. There's nothing like a random sprinkling of bovines to add tranquility to a landscape. But it's the cheese that really wins me over ... and the yoghurt, of course. Not a day goes by that I don't give thanks to the great god of dairy that I'm not lactose intolerant.
Not surprisingly, all that verdant Atherton Tablelands pasture produces some top quality produce. It's a tough call, but my award for taste sensation of the trip goes to Mungalli Creek Biodynamic Dairy for their Davidson's Plum Yoghurt. (Note to self: return home and plant mini-forest of Davidson's - i.e. native - plums ASAP).


Here I am outside the Mungali Creek Out of the Whey (they said it, not me) Teahouse, looking every bit as contented as one of the herd. Well, that's because I've just polished off a rich and fruity slice of their ridiculously delicious ricotta cheesecake. They also do incredible things with quark. It's a wonderful place - just the cutest and most unpretentious farmhouse down the end of a long and winding road, where you can kick back on the verandah, soak up the expansive vistas of Mt Bartle Frere (Queensland's highest), and graze happily away.


And finally, a shot of my favourite waterfall (Australia's widest). Up on the Tablelands, there's a waterfall gushing forth round every bend, yet for me there was something special about this place. In the sharp, early morning light, with no other humans in sight, its raw, primordial beauty was extraordinarily powerful. How humbling, and strangely comforting to find, not 20 km from all that tamed, European-style countryside, a pristine slice of Gondwanaland.

3 comments:

pepper said...

Oh Hi! I just found your blog, i love those teapots, i like soup very much, and I was a little tiny tyke in atherton, born in cairns base hospital! i would also like a pet pig. sigh. I love your blog :)

Wendy Hincks Ward said...

Why thank you Pepper! So glad you've enjoyed your visit to Hamlet and Co...
I popped over to your cute blog and spied Banana Yoshimoto on your book list ....so there's another thing we have in common..
Stay tuned for lots more soup.
(Hamlet says Hi!)

Carmen said...

Dear Wendy
I really like your blog. It's so nice to read from you! I really miss our wonderful lessons with captivating discussions and heartily laughters.
Take care
Carmen